On the heels of my little adventure across the hills and
beaches of Italy comes another set of Italian samples for your consideration as
you continue to bask in the afterglow of Losing your V-Card.
First off is another Italian white, since we’ve been on that
kick. Not a “V” wine, but an Italian autochthonal grape nonetheless. This wine
is made from the Insolia grape, grown on the island of Sicily. The Feudo Principi di Butera 2015 Insolia Sicilia
is minerally but rich. I didn’t expect a wine with a backbone of flint like
this to have such a full mouthfeel, but this one surprised me. Nose of peach
and banana. Firm, elegant body with some stone fruit. Finish is almonds,
lemons, and minerals.. A really nice all-around white wine. Was a lovely
pairing with a sous-vide salmon filet alongside a fatoush-ish salad. Enough
oomph to both stand up to the oil in the salmon and to stand out against the
vinegar and acid in the salad. Reminded me a little of a Condrieu from France,
which would retail at around twice the price. A steal at $15.
Next up is an example of doing something typically thought
of as a basic wine really, really well. I’m a fan of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo as
an inexpensive, everyday table wine. There’s also a Riserva version of this underrated
quaff, which means that it’s been aged for at least two years.
That’s the case with the Caroso 2010 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva, whose body immediately
jumps out of the glass as richer and fuller than most of its more inexpensive
cousins. With blackcurrant and blackberry on the palate, it boasts a firm
tannicky backbone. I thought I could have easily mistaken this for a Cabernet Sauvignon,
especially on the finish, which has an interesting blend of tannin, cherries,
and figs. I was so pleased to find a complexity I’m not used to with my
friendly Montepulciano, and it was a stunningly good match with my “Eggplant
Pamesan,” one of my special occasion meal for the SPinC. I don’t usually
splurge on Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, but at $22, worth a shot to see if it’s up
your alley.
Finally, there’s a current trend in Prosecco that doesn’t
thrill me. A few years ago, Moscato had a big moment on the culinary stage.
Moscato was a good brunch choice – low alcohol, a little bubbly – so it went
well with breakfast food. But it was always a bit sweet for my liking on a
regular basis. Most Prosecco I’d tried reminded me a lot of slightly fruitier
Cava – both were straightforward, fairly dry sparkling wines. Moscato has
fallen a bit out of favor, but Prosecco is taking up that market share by
becoming more Moscato-like.
The Castello del
Poggio (NV) Prosecco is an example of this very thing. At 11% ABV, it’s a
fairly light white. The carbonation is creamy and soft next to a flavor based
around golden delicious apples. Listed as a “demi-sec” (medium-dry) wine, I
found the honey sweetness to be a bit overpowering, all in all, and the wine’s
whole flavor tended to be a lack a crispness that I like in a sparkling wine.
It’s not that it’s a bad wine, per se, but it’s not normally what I’d reach
for. If you were making cocktails, it might not be a bad mixer. $13.
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