Welcome, Fort Wayne!

Whatzup, the entertainment weekly of the Summit City, started running The Naked Vine in print this week. While not quite as notable as the playing of the first major league baseball game, we at the Vine aim to be the official wine advice column for The Landing, the new NBDL franchise, and all the wine drinkers of Allen County. Welcome! Kick back. Grab a glass and enjoy...

Wine School! (Class #5 -- cabernet sauvignon)

Cabernet Sauvignon -- the "classic" red.

Under this wine's influence, great writing, art, romance, and history have all sprung. Grown just about everywhere, cabernet sauvignon is the world's most popular red. Known also as "claret," learning cabernet is an absolute must for a would-be wine enthusiast. So read on -- you'll find something workable.

The Sweet Partner in Crime and I decided to make an evening of our Cabernet Sauvignon tasting. Our three samples for the evening:

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) 2004 Coastal Estates Cabernet Sauvignon -- USA -- $8-10
Chateau Gauthier 2003 Médoc Bordeaux -- France -- $12-14
Cousiño-Macul 2004 Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon -- Chile -- $11-13

A quick note about the wines. As I've mentioned, French wine is named by the location in which it's made, not the grape from which it's made. Red Bordeaux tends to be made largely from cabernet sauvignon and merlot (which is why the grapes were initially grouped together). This particular wine is 55% cabernet and 45% merlot. In general, cabernets tend to be blends predominantly made from cabernet sauvignon, although some (like the Chilean above) are 100% cabernet.

We pulled corks, poured, and tasted. Initially, the Chilean and French wines seemed too alcoholic and without any good flavor. The BV tasted like spiked grape juice. Then we remembered an important fact about cabernets and other tannic wines.

Tannic wines like cabernets, especially when young (and anything less than five years old is considered young for a cab), almost always need to be decanted before drinking. Decanting is WineSpeak for getting some oxygen into the wine -- even before swirling. One of those pretty glass decanters is helpful but not necessary. For most cabs, just open the bottle 20-30 minutes before you drink it. That will allow the wine to "breathe," which markedly improves the flavor and aroma.

We poured a little more of each and then let the bottles rest for a bit while we made dinner. We did this tasting on the first nice night of spring, so we grilled filets and topped them with blue cheese (Try it. Trust me.), made some garlicky new potatoes, fixed a little salad and while the steaks were "resting," and tried the wines again.

What a difference! Now we could properly judge them. At first taste:

If you want the flavors of a classic French red, this Bordeaux has them. Even an inexpensive Bordeaux like the Chateau Gauthier has the complexity for which this region is known. The nose has "The Old World Funk." It's best described as an "earthy" scent (the SP in Crime called it "agricultural") -- like the scent of earth when you've been working in the garden. Without a little decanting, that scent also includes the gardening sweat smell which overpowers the scent of berries.

After decanting, you can almost taste the two grapes working together. The initial taste is "wet" like a merlot, but the tannins of the cabernet quickly catch up. There's some more of that "earthy" taste. The finish is very interesting. If you read enough wine reviews, you'll see mentions of "leather" and "cigar box." I finally understood what they meant after tasting this wine, which finishes a bit dry.

The BV was a huge contrast. The nose is very clean and extremely fruity. The flavor was much fruitier, with a lot more body. (Some would call this "jammy.") The finish was barely dry at all. The tannins were almost completely covered by the fruit.

The Cousiño-Macul was, again, very different. Before I let it breathe, the nose almost smelled like asphalt. But after a bit, that morphed into fruit and tobacco scents. There's also little of that "Old World" scent. The body of the wine was in-between the others and the finish was the driest. The flavors weren't overpowering -- some fruit, some tannin, and a little chocolate. (More on that later.)

(Warning -- the following is not vegetarian friendly…)

Big ol' reds like cabernet sauvignon go hand in hoof with steak. Steak and potatoes is a classic pairing with cabernet, which is precisely why we chose this menu. With the three wines before us, we tried them with the steak.

The Bordeaux immediately jumped to the forefront once we started eating. The earthiness of the wine was a perfect complement to the beef, potato, and garlic flavor. The fruit of the wine came out as we ate. I could see this with any kind of game or anything earthy like mushrooms.

The Chilean wine also paired nicely. The tannin in this wine, more so than the earthy flavor, cut through the fat in the beef and made a pleasant combination. However, I think this wine really would stand out in a meat dish that has a little bit of spice, like a chimichurri sauce.

The BV didn't fare quite as well. The best thing about this wine -- the fruitiness -- was lost against the flavors of beef and cheese. This wine wouldn't be a bad pairing with something a little sweet and spicy, like barbecue sauce or a dry rub of some kind. But with straight steak and potatoes, it was a surprisingly poor match.

We also tried some of the cheese alone on crackers. Again, the Chilean and French wines (especially the French) stood apart.

At the end of the evening, we sat on the front porch to enjoy the gorgeous weather. And, as we usually do, we brought out the dark chocolate. The BV didn't go well. The French wine was good. However, the Chilean and chocolate married into a wonderful creamy flavor.

When you're thinking about pairing food and wine -- consider the cuisine of the area. Historically, people make wine to go with whatever they're eating. Some wines are best as food wines. The Chilean and French cabernets are perfect examples. French diets are heavy in meat, cheese, game, and earthy vegetables. Chilean cuisine tends to be earthy and meat-heavy as well, but with more spice -- as found in a lot of Spanish-themed cuisine. Keep that in mind as you plan your next menu.

As for the BV? Cabernets aren't known for going with lighter food, but this one would be better if you want to go that route. BV needs light meats, rich pastas, or something along the lines of chicken teriyaki. Honestly, I think that I could find better pairings for all of those entrees than a cab. However, all is not lost. The BV is certainly the best "end of day glass" of wine -- easily the most drinkable on its own.

Next, over to chardonnay to see what we can discover. Class dismissed…

Gerta

If you'll indulge me for a moment…more Wine School soon.

The Sweet Partner in Crime arranged a wonderful pre-birthday getaway for me -- I just got back today. After a trip to Keeneland (where I broke even, as opposed to the haul my friend Judy brought in), we headed to Natural Bridge State Park for a getaway weekend.

My family joined us for lunch and I put together a wine tasting for everyone afterwards. That particular adventure will be covered in more detail when we get to the Riesling column in a couple of weeks.

The star of the show, as always, was Gerta, my 95 year-old grandmother. My paternal grandparents immigrated from Germany to the United States during WWII, narrowly escaping the Holocaust. (Literally. Their ship left the harbor just before the Rotterdam Blitz.) That piece of my family history is fascinating in and of itself -- but that's not related to the story at hand.

Gerta, my last surviving grandparent, is nothing short of wondrous. I hope I have her genes. She's in incredible physical shape. She swims every day and can set a walking pace, even with a cane, that will challenge anyone. We worried that she might have some difficulty getting to our cottage at the state park, since the front door was up about four flights of steps, slick with rain.

When my folks and she arrived, she opened the car door, pulled on her rain hood, grabbed her cane with gusto, and started charging up the stairs -- with my father giving chase with an open umbrella, calling, "Mom! Mom!"

Aside from her physical attributes and unbelievable capacity for expressing love, what I admire most about her is her mind. She's sharp, quick-witted, and plugs away with a lust for life few can match, Iggy Pop included. She's amazingly inquisitive, still asking pointed questions in her thick German accent (Gerta and Dr. Ruth sound remarkably alike).

By now, you may be asking yourself what all this has to do with wine.

After a little Kahlua in her post-lunch coffee and a sip of my father's birthday gift of cognac (which she identified immediately), she started telling stories about her family.

Gerta grew up in the Rhineland. She said she remembered both her grandfather and father being winemakers.

"My grandfather in Ockenheim had big vats down in the basement. All the neighbors would bring him grapes and he would make wine." Apparently, he never sold it. It was a hobby. "They'd bring him the grapes and then they'd come back and he'd give them the wine. Everyone loved it." She also mentioned that he "carried a walking stick with a big grape carved on the end."

She grew up in another town in the Rhineland, Idar-Oberstein -- about two hours west of Frankfurt. Her father was a butcher, renowned for his spiesbraten. "He and my mother loved wine and beer. He cut the meat for the good hotel in Oberstein, and every Sunday, he and my mother would get dressed up and go to the hotel for a bottle of good wine that they would give him as part of his payment."

There was more along this line, fascinating family history I'd never heard before -- and I won't recount it all here. I'm happy to learn that I come by my interests honestly and genetically. She amazes and inspires all of us. Ich liebe dich, Oma.

On an unrelated note, longtime readers might note an addition to the "benefactors" section. "Whatzup" Magazine, the entertainment weekly in Fort Wayne, Indiana, has generously decided to give the Vine some new terroir. Start date TBA…

Wine School! (Class #4 -- Sauvignon Blanc)

Sauvignon Blanc, the light white.

Of the six major varietals, Sauvignon Blanc is the most delicate. Sauvignon Blanc follows only Chardonnay in domestic U.S. production -- although the difference between first and second place in that comparison is a factor of six or seven. That said, as people have become somewhat "chardonnayed out" in the last decade or so, Sauvignon Blanc has stepped up to please curious palates.

Sauvignon Blanc's origins are usually traced to the Bordeaux region of France. The grape is actually the parent varietal of Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes tends to be light in body with a fragrant, usually fruity, nose. The taste is normally somewhat fruity and tart, and the finish is normally fairly crisp. "Old World" Sauvignon Blancs sometimes have a mineral character, as well. (Though not like the Grüner Veltliner from earlier.)

Among areas growing Sauvignon Blanc, the best known wines are from Bordeaux -- since, well, they came up with it. California, Australia, and New Zealand started creating quality Sauvignon Blanc in the 80's and 90's. South America, other areas of the U.S., and various other European countries now harvest this grape in ever-increasing amounts. You may see wines labeled "fume blanc." Same grape -- just a different style. (Chenin Blanc, however, is a completely different grape.)

Sauvignon Blanc is an extremely food friendly wine, largely because of its acidity. The acidity of the wine cuts through flavors that can be real wine killers. Some see "acidity" and think "sour." "Tartness" is a better synonym. Imagine lemon juice or lime juice -- very acidic and sour on its own. But if you put a splash of either in some club soda or tonic water, the tartness is pleasant.

I'll discuss more specific food pairings below, but hot peppery foods go exceptionally well with Sauvignon Blanc. Why? The chemical compound in pepper that creates heat is called Capsaicin. If you sift through some dusty memories to high school chemistry class, Capsaicin is a strong base. Sauvignon Blanc is acidic, and acids and bases neutralize each other. Sauvignon Blanc paired with spicy food tames both the tartness and the heat, allowing the food's flavor and the wine's fruit to shine through.

As I discussed with the pinot noir, the terroir of this wine has a major effect on the flavor. For comparison's sake, I chose three very different versions of this most refreshing grape:

Veramonte 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (Chile) -- $10-12
Yvecourt 2005 Bordeaux (France) -- $9-11
Villa Maria 2005 Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) -- $13-15

When looking at the three glasses, even with a wine as light as Sauvignon Blanc, there's a difference. The Veramonte is the lightest -- a very pale yellow. The Yvecourt is a little darker. The Villa Maria has the deepest yellow color.

The contrast continues with the noses. The Veramonte was the fruitiest smelling with a very distinct scent of grapefruit and tropical fruits like mangoes. The Yvecourt's nose was somewhat fruity, but was much more floral and had a little bit of that herbaceous scent. The Villa Maria had the most complex nose. The herbaceous scent was very strong at first, but mellowed after another good swirl into pineapples and vanilla.

The tastes were strikingly different. The Veramonte was a bit tart and very crisp. The finish was tropical and a little peppery. The Yvecourt was the lightest tasting with a little citrus flavor, but quite gentle. The finish was extremely dry with some of that mineral flavor I mentioned earlier. The Villa Maria, again, was the most complex and full-bodied of the three. The mouthfeel approached chardonnay range. The fruit was certainly there coupled with vanilla flavors. The finish was the least dry and was the longest, gradually getting tarter as drank more.

When would you drink each of these? The Veramonte was probably the most drinkable on its own if you need something refreshing. It also pairs well with almost anything spicy, and it went especially well with Thai food. The Yvecourt goes with any kind of shellfish. Crab, scallops, shrimp, calamari -- anything along those lines and you've got a winner. The fullness of the Villa Maria made it very interesting. It's full enough to pair with chicken, pork, and some cream sauces -- basically anything you'd pair with a chardonnay or pinot noir.

Sauvignon Blanc is my favorite white varietal of the moment, especially as the weather warms. (Although you wouldn't know it from the snow on the tulips here currently.) As winter turns to spring and stews yield to pastas primavera, the crispness of a Sauvignon Blanc becomes an ideal choice. As summer approaches, Sauvignon Blanc is the quintessential "pool wine" -- a revitalizing sipper on a hot day. Enjoy.

Next up, the grandpappy of the reds -- Cabernet Sauvignon.

Class dismissed…

The Wines of April

On this lovely Sunday, we at the Naked Vine decided to take a time out from Wine School to do a tasting of some real kick back wines. These wines are readily available, and all of them are best served well-chilled. While chilling a wine to fridge temperature typically causes the fruit in a wine to become tightly wound, I find that cold really improves the flavor of these particular selections.

Lancers November 2006 Rosé– Lancers, the rebirth of the long-popular Mateus rosé, evokes an urban vibe on the first sip. Lancers has a lovely nose of peaches soaked in isopropyl. The flavor, mellowed by the proper serving temperature of 38 degrees Fahrenheit, bursts on your tongue with the velvety touch of a bolt of fine Chinese silk wrapped around a newly purchased ballpeen hammer. The finish is a bit sharp. Lancers’ website recommends it be mixed with “lemonade concentrate” and be garnished with a mint leaf, probably for the antioxidants. $4-6.

Boone’s Farm January 2007 Strawberry Hill – The original “flavored citrus wine” takes me back to my days in high school, roaming the hills of Eastern Kentucky, hoping that there might be a beneficent 21 year old visiting one of my friends. The light nose of strawberries and hormones is followed by a fruity blend of flavors, all of which properly mask the fact that the drink actually contains alcohol. The finish is long and sweet, with faint notes of teenage rejection and regret. $5-7.

Manischewitz October 2006 Concord Grape – The concord grape, long overlooked by many, holds a special place in my heart. This was the first wine I tasted in my career. I learned that there are two kinds of families at Shabbos, Mogen David and Manischewitz families. My family was the latter. While Manichewitz has diversified its product line, adding a “smooth and light” line, as well as elderberry, blackberry, cherry, and loganberry versions, I consider myself a purist. Nothing says “L’Chaim” like good old fashioned Concord. If you only get one wine to cook with for Seder, this is the one. $5-6.

Until next time…April Fool’s, y’all.

Wine School! (Class #3 -- Pinot Noir)

Pinot Noir, the elegant grape.

The pleasure of learning about wine expands when you start to explore the differences that exist between wines made from the same grape. It's easy to tell a Pinot Noir from a Syrah, but learning how pinots themselves differ gives you the opportunity to find something you really like and to find the perfect wine for the right occasion, food, evening, gathering, person, etc.

We'll start with regional differences. The area in which a wine's grapes are grown is known as its terroir. (Pronounced tare-WAHR) Literally translated as "soil" in French, a wine's terroir changes the taste of a wine dramatically. Wines made in similar styles with identical grapes can taste radically different, even if those grapes are grown on adjacent plots of land. I find wine tastings of wines from a single growing region fascinating because of those differences.

However, we're not splitting flavors that fine here. Wines from a certain region tend to take on a certain character, and that character can often be food-driven. I've found that winemakers create wines to accompany their home's cuisine and lifestyle. If a regional diet includes a lot of earthy-tasting food, the wines will be earthy tasting. Lighter traditional menus will almost always yield lighter wines, and so on.

I think the best way to learn about a wine is to try several versions of the same grape. With that in mind, here are three markedly different pinots to pour side by side by side:

Tortoise Creek 2005 Pinot Noir -- The French may be slow to change, but they do know which way the wind blows. Over the last couple of decades, international demand for French wine has declined. While some blame American animosity towards France in the wake of 9/11, I believe that there's a simpler economic explanation: French wines are more expensive, difficult to unravel, and almost impossible for a beginner to grasp.

If you look at most bottles of French wine, the name of the grape is nowhere to be found. The French name their wines by region: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Sancerre, Chablis, etc. You'll typically see the name of the chateau where the wine is made, the region, the year -- and that's about it. I had a hard time initially with French wine because I didn't realize, for example, that most red Burgundy is actually pinot noir. (This is not to be confused with jug "Burgundy" of Gallo fame.) There's also white Burgundy, which bears no resemblance to white Zinfandel.

Anyway, the French wised up. While there is still an abundance of traditional French wines, some growers committed the heresy of putting the name of the grape on the label and marketing wines to…well…regular barbaric wine lovers like us. Tortoise Creek (which sounds like it should be from Australia, no?) is an example of one of these "Americanized" pinots.

This wine greets you with a nose of chocolate covered cherries. The flavor is extremely light with a little cherry fruit flavor and a somewhat chalky body. The finish is much drier than many pinot noirs that I've had. Interestingly, this wine reminded me more of Chianti (another wine named after a region) than a French wine. This wine would definitely be better with food. It would be excellent with any roasted or baked fish, or pasta in lighter red sauces. At $8-10, this is an excellent value.

Bogle 2004 Russian River Pinot Noir -- The Russian River valley in Sonoma is better known for bolder wines like Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, but there are some very decent pinots tucked away among the bolder grapes. You'll get a wonderful terroir contrast here. French pinot noirs tend to be extremely light and slightly acidic, while wines from California tend to reflect the boldness of those wines. They're generally fuller and fruitier.

The Bogle is no exception. The nose is much stronger, with berry flavors jumping right out at you. The flavor is rich with a very round body. You might taste cherries and raspberries. The finish is dry, but much less acidic than the French version. I found this to be the most drinkable of the three wines. Since it's slightly heavier, it would go well with chicken, lighter meats, and pretty much any kind of red sauce short of one with sausage. $12-14 for a very nice wine.

Cono Sur 2005 Pinot Noir -- California, Oregon, and France may be best known for pinot, but some other places are trying with mixed success to break into the market. Chile, one of the current leaders in value wine, has started to produce pinot, including this entry from Cono Sur. These are surprisingly decent wines for the price, and you get the chance to be the "Cono Sur" at any gathering.

Cono Sur is the lightest of the three pinots in color but not flavor. The nose is slightly fruity and has a scent of earth. The flavor is certainly the most acidic of the three and a bit smoky. The finish is dry and slightly tannic -- unexpected in a pinot. This wine is the least "pinot" tasting to me. It's really neither fish nor fowl (although it would pair with both). It's supposed to be "new world styled," but it tasted more "Old World" -- meaning that the more earthy character stood out. I'd probably pair it with light gamey foods -- duck, for instance. Lamb or something along those lines would also work. It's worth trying for the difference, if nothing else. $9-11.

I think you get the idea -- while a rose is a rose is a rose, a pinot ain't a pinot ain't a pinot. The variance of a single grape among regions, styles, and flavors will keep you fascinated for years. Just don't blame me if it becomes an expensive habit. Just remember, home equity loans are not meant for stocking a wine cellar.

Next up is Sauvignon Blanc -- class dismissed…

The Naked Vine...delivered!

If you look to the right of the page, you'll see that I've started a mailing list. I'll be sending alerts for postings of new wines, other various announcements, and an occasional surprise or two. Simply fill in your email address to subscribe.

Rest assured -- no selling of addresses or other such unpleasantries. Spam bad, bad, bad.

Wine School! (Class #2 -- Whites, the basics)

Moving to the other side of the wine aisle…

When I started drinking wine, I thought (as many do) that red wine came from red grapes and white wine from white grapes. Let's have a look see. Here's a picture of some ripe cabernet sauvignon grapes:

And here are some ripe sauvignon blanc grapes:

Hmm…

The color of wine has little to do with the color of the grape. If a winemaker wishes to make a red wine, the skins of the pressed grapes stay in the fermenter with the juice. The alcohol produced acts as a solvent, drawing color from the grapes. This process is called maceration. Grape skins are not present in the fermentation of whites. (Rosés are made by leaving the skins in briefly, yielding a "less red" color.) Since tannin also comes from the skins, white wines tend to be less dry and have more fruit flavor than reds. Tannins also act as a preservative, which is why -- as a rule -- it's better to drink whites and less tannic reds young, while cabernets can age for long periods of time.

As I mentioned before, there are three major white varietals: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Riesling. And, as before, pick up a bottle of each of these varietals, pour a little, and taste them in this order.

Dancing Bull 2005 Sauvignon Blanc $7-9
Rabbit Ridge 2004 Central Coast Chardonnay -- $9-11
Selbach 2004 Riesling Qualitätswein -- $8-10

First, Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon blanc likely originated in the Bordeaux region of France. Most white Bordeaux are made largely from this grape. Sauvignon blancs tend to be tart and crisp. The tartness of a sauvignon blanc comes from the wine's higher level of acidity -- much as an orange is more tart than an apple. As you sniff this wine, you'll usually smell something a little tropical -- pineapples and grapefruits, usually. There's also often a smell that many people describe as "herbaceous" -- like freshly cut grass.

You'll immediately taste the acidity on the first sip. Many SB's have a very pronounced citrus flavor. Some also have a mineral character -- and we'll get to that when we explore sauvignon blanc in more detail. The finish is usually tart and crisp. On a hot day either after working outside or sunning poolside, there are few more refreshing choices than sauvignon blanc.

Sauvignon blancs are incredibly food-friendly because of their high acidity. Much as a cabernet sauvignon's tannin allows it to cut through the fat of a piece of red meat, the makeup of a sauvignon blanc allows its flavor to stand up to many other foods. Spicy foods like Mexican, Indian, or Thai go well, as would a simple salad. (Salad, honestly, is one of the more difficult food pairings.) Light fish dishes also go well, as the sauvignon's flavors won't overwhelm those tastes.

On to Chardonnay, the most popular white varietal in the world. Why? In my opinion, there's more variation in taste among chardonnays than almost any other varietal, red or white. Thus, there's a "flavor" of Chardonnay for almost any palate. In general, Chardonnay generates a full-bodied white wine, less tart than the sauvignon blanc. The fruit is less pronounced, and the finish tends to be smoother.

As for that variation in flavors, if you ever hear discussions of "old world" versus "new world" wines, Chardonnay is a classic example. Old World-style chardonnays (such as white Burgundies) tend to be slightly acidic and crisp. The fruit flavor tends to be mellow, pleasant, and refreshing. New World Chardonnays (specifically, California chards) have two distinct additional flavors: butter and oak.

The "butter" flavor comes from a process called malolactic fermentation. This bacterial process converts the very tart malic acid into lactic acid. Lactic acid is not as tart -- it's the same acid found in dairy products. The result of malolactic fermentation is a compound called diacetyl, which has the aroma of buttered popcorn. If you hear someone referring to a wine "undergoing full malolactic fermentation," that's longhand for "this wine won't be very tart."

The "oak" flavor is unmistakable. Many New World chardonnays are aged in charred oak barrels (or toasted oak chips are added), which makes the wine slightly darker and imparts a character of oak or vanilla. For many years, the California wine industry went overboard in "oaking" wines, leading to a signature flavor on one hand, but a tough wine for many palates to handle on the other. Some California wineries are swinging the other way, specifically making "unoaked" Chardonnay.

The Rabbit Ridge I used is very much a "New World" chardonnay. Both the oak and butter flavors are present.

Because Chardonnay has so much variety, you can find a specific one to go with any number of foods. The Old World chards go really well with seafood, while the New World ones pair with chicken, cream sauces, and pork.

Finally, Riesling. Many people's thoughts of Riesling don't go far beyond the mouth-puckering sweetness of Black Tower or Blue Nun -- causing lots of folks to pass on this wonderful varietal. Riesling is generally the most full-bodied white wine and there is usually some sweetness. Riesling is also one of the few whites, along with Sauternes, that can be aged.

I did an extensive entry a while ago on Riesling, so if you want to know your spatlese from your kabinett and your trocken from your halbtrocken, go here.

The Selbach is a "Qualitätswein" -- the German designation for basic table wine. You'll notice a fairly strong apple scent when you swirl. The taste will be "round" and full with a pleasant sweetness. The sweetness will be even more evident next to the other two wines. You'll also get a little bit of acidity on both the taste and finish.

Like sauvignon blanc, Riesling is an exceptional food wine. Thai or Chinese food go remarkably well with Riesling, but traditional German and Austrian cuisines work well here, too. If you're ever at a loss for a bottle of wine to take to dinner, buy a Riesling, specifically a "dry Riesling" (the label will either say "Dry Riesling" or "trocken"). Dry Riesling pairs with anything from sushi to bratwurst.

One final note: Although there's no absolute consensus on the order in which you taste wines -- I tend to taste drier wines before sweet wines, and light wines before heavy ones. A sauvignon blanc will taste better before a chardonnay, rather than the other way around.

I'd suggest you do a couple of these "varietal side by sides" so you can tell the difference among grapes. The next several "lessons" will deal with the varietals individually. First up will be pinot noir.

Until next time…class dismissed.

Notes of Thanks

I want to extend a heartfelt note of thanks to Gina Daugherty of CinWeekly magazine. CinWeekly is one of the two main arts and entertainment weeklies in Cincinnati. Gina put together a piece on local bloggers, and she was kind enough to include The Naked Vine. She also included my good friend Dave Purcell's Radio Free Newport (which fittingly got top billing for the article -- it's brilliant writing and commentary), as well as Chris Glass' The Last Ten Days, Nur Jemal's Rockin' Hejabi, Joe Hansbauer's The 'Nati, and Kasmira Oar's What I Wore Today.

The last trip I took by air was to Los Angeles -- the jumping off point for the Santa Barbara excursion. I flew into LAX at night -- and I still get overwhelmed when I think that every light below is a person with a story to tell. I never cease to be amazed by the sheer number of fascinating perspectives and ideas hovering out there awaiting discovery. It's been fun to add my voice to the chorus.

Many thanks to Gina (one of the cooler people I've met recently), and to David Sorcher for dealing with the glare off my noggin while he was shooting the picture for the piece. Many thanks to the Sweet Partner in Crime and Mooch the Magnificent Mutt for support and inspiration. Most of all, thanks to those of you who found your way to my little corner of the Internets. I hope you can find something useful and fun here.

Here to keeping the Vine rolling for a long time to come. Cheers!

Ernest Gallo: 1909-2007

Seems only fitting for a site focused on inexpensive wine to post a postmortem for Ernest Gallo, Lord of Lambrusco.

I'll hold off for now on *cough* tastings *cough* of Gallo. If there's one thing this project taught me -- you don't need to sacrifice taste for cost. That said, Gallo arguably did more to make wine an American household commodity than anyone in recent history. For that, we are grateful.

We at the Naked Vine raise our jugs of "Chablis" and "Burgundy" in salute.

Wine School! (Class #1 -- Reds, the basics)

When I started this little endeavor, I wanted to provide a resource for basic, everyday people to find basic, everyday wine and make the world of wine a little less intimidating.

I was having a conversation with the Sweet Partner in Crime the other day, and she made a great suggestion: "Why not do some stuff on wine basics? If you give people a base to work from, they'll appreciate your regular columns even more."

There's a reason she's the smart one in the relationship.

My plan for the next several installments (although I'll sprinkle in a few other topics here and there) is to provide a basic overview of the major wine varietals, how to recognize them, and what to expect when you do a tasting.

Generally speaking, there are six or seven major grape varietals. There are three reds: pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, and syrah. There are three whites: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Riesling. Merlot is the seventh varietal. Merlot was used largely as a blending grape until the last several decades, so it's usually left off the list. We'll focus on the main six for now. (But if you want some merlot information, go here.)

I'll do a brief overview of the grapes first, and I'll provide more in-depth coverage of the individual varietals as a follow up. I'll start with the reds.

For our first tastings, here are the wines I used:

Mirassou 2005 Pinot Noir ($7-8)
Rex Goliath 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($8-9)
Cline 2004 Syrah ($9-10)

You can, of course, use other wines from these varietals you may have lying around. Fetch three glasses, pour samples side by side by side, line them up, and proceed. Remember, if this process doesn't work as well as you'd like…simply refill the glasses and start again.

We begin with Pinot Noir. Pinot noir is the lightest major red varietal. Watch the wine as you pour -- almost translucent. As you swirl the wine (and the reason we do this is here), take a good look at it. It's very light, isn't it? Then take a big sniff. The nose of a pinot is generally soft and fragrant. You'll often smell flowers and cherries. Now a little taste. The taste mirrors the nose -- light and delicate. The finish (flavors left in your mouth after you've swallowed the wine) tends to be soft, especially in comparison to the other wines here. Wine folks (like those in Sideways) greatly appreciate this wine because the flavors are subtle and complex. Regardless of whether or not you're into pulling apart flavors, it's still a very pleasant tasting, drinkable wine. Pinot's flavors also change and intensify as you drink. After the first taste of the Mirassou, wait a minute or so and then take a second sip -- the flavor and finish becomes almost chocolaty at the end. If you're thinking about pairing pinot noir with food (or any wine, for that matter), the operative concept isn't the type of food -- it's the style of food that's more important. Light wines complement light food. A pinot, then, would go with poultry, pork, or fish. It will also work with a number of spicy or saucy foods, as it's an incredibly flexible food wine.

On to Cabernet Sauvignon. The first thing you'll notice is the color. The wine is a much deeper, darker purple. It looks much heavier bodied. When you take your first big sniff, you'll notice a smell sort-of-but-not-quite like blackberries. If you hear people talking about "cassis" or "blackcurrant" notes, that's what they're referring to (you can stick to calling it blackberry if you want). The taste is also immediately different. There's fruit and alcohol flavor is much stronger than the pinot when you take the first sip, but the real difference emerges a few seconds after. You'll feel your mouth start to "dry out" with this wine. Cabernet Sauvignon is known to be a very "tannic" wine. Tannin is a chemical naturally occuring in grape skin. Pinot noir is a very thin-skinned grape, thus the tannin concentration will be much lower than the thicker-skinned cabernet grape. The effect of the tannins is a sensation is called "astringency," which you'll also get from strong black tea. The finish of a cabernet is longer -- you'll taste the dryness for quite awhile after you swallow. Cabernet is the most tannic of the "major" varietals. That tannin is useful in pairing cabernet with fatty, earthy, or heavy foods. That tannin cuts through the heaviness, allowing the flavor of the wine and the food to complement each other. Grilled steaks, portabella mushrooms, big pastas and chocolates are classic cabernet pairings.

Finally, we arrive at Syrah -- the biggest of the reds. Not the driest…the biggest. You can see when you pour that the wine is the darkest and heaviest. The color is blackish purple, generally. (Wine folks call this "inky.") The nose of this wine is strong and fragrant, often full of plums and blackberries. When you taste, you'll immediately sense the "roundness" in comparison to the others. The flavor is usually full of berries, plums, and black cherries. The finish is fruity and not overly dry, and often has a licorice or chocolate flavor (which is why syrah is a fantastic chocolate pairing). You'll taste tannins in this wine, too -- but they're not as pronounced as the cabernet. A good syrah is generally defined as having "firm" tannins. Foodwise, syrah is best paired with just about anything you can put over fire. Grilled meats and vegetables, big stews -- anything with a rich flavor will go well with syrah's richness. Syrah is also a great wine for cool evenings. One other syrah note: you might see wines labeled Shiraz. The Australians called their syrah grapes "shiraz" after harvesting them for bit. Why? Who knows? Just know it's the same grape.

Differentiating between varietals is one of the keys to appreciating wine, pairing with food, or just finding something to fit your mood. Eventually, try side-by-side tastings with other varietals to see how they compare. You'll notice zinfandel, Chianti, tempranillo, malbec, merlot, etc. all have unique characteristics. For starters, though, stick with the basics. If you'd like, feel free to pass along what you find from your own tastings. I'd be interested to hear.

I hope this gives you a good starting point. Until next time…class dismissed…

Möre fün wïth ümlaüts -- Grüner Veltliner

I promise…no more talk of mullets.

However, Gewürztraminer inspired me to explore a grape from that region I hadn't experienced: Grüner Veltliner. While this may sound like a German airplane, it's a white grape widely grown in Austria. Pronounce it GREW-ner felt-LEE-ner, or just call it, as one wine writer did, "GruVey."

Robin Webb of the "30 Second Wine Advisor" says there's a saying among Austrian wine drinkers, translated roughly as "Why should we drink fruit when we can drink rocks?"

Grüner Veltliner is unique-tasting. It's a crisp, medium bodied wine with a distinctly pleasant aroma -- but the taste is quite "minerally" and very dry. The granite-filled soil in the Wachau region imparts a distinct character. If you've ever been outside on a hot day, been really thirsty, and put a pebble in your mouth to help for a bit -- that's a close estimation to that flavor.

Why drink rocks? This wine gives you the best of all worlds if you're looking for a food-friendly wine. The flavor is in the sauvignon blanc/dry Riesling range -- two of your most food friendly varietals. The mineral character allows the wine's flavor to slice through just about anything -- seafood, chicken, spicy foods, pork -- basically anything except the richest sauces and cuts of beef.

Grüner Veltliner isn't widely distributed in the U.S. -- yet. You can sometimes find a few bottles mixed in amongst German Rieslings. Austrians tend to drink this wine very young, but the best ones will apparently age up to 15 years or so -- very much like a Riesling. I've not tried many older Grüner Veltliners -- but that's definitely on the list. One other nice aspect -- Austrians tend to package wine in 1 liter bottles. Since they're already fairly inexpensive wines, you get a lot more bang for your buck.

Here are a few I was able to track down locally. Please feel free to add more:

Nigl 2004 Grüner Veltliner Trocken -- I was actually surprised at the color of this wine. It's remarkably pale. The nose is of peaches and that mineral scent I mentioned. This wine is absolutely bone dry with a very light body. It tastes almost peppery on the tongue and is a bit tart. The sensation was close to drinking a carbonated beverage, although there are no bubbles. The finish slides into more of that uniquely dry, mineral taste. You could certainly pair this with anything I mentioned above. It would also work wonderfully as a palate-cleansing aperitif. It would also be a very crisp "just worked in the yard" summer wine. Who needs the pebble? $14-15

Loimer 2004 Grüner Veltliner -- This is another dry GV, although it has a little more fruit than the Nigl. The taste isn't quite as dry as its cousin, though the mineral undertones are certainly quite present and pleasant. The flavor is a little grapefruity. The finish is somewhat tart, and doesn't have the same "carbonated" taste. It reminds me a great deal of a French Loire Valley sauvignon blanc, with two major differences. First, obviously, the mineral character is more pronounced. Second, you're not going to find "vins de Sauvignon" in one-liter bottles for $10-12. If you have friends who are French sauvignon fans, spring this on them.

Berger 2004 Grüner Veltliner -- Berger is one of the more unique wines I've tried -- I don't know whether that's good or bad. The nose is hard to define. I would say it's close to mineral-laden pears. The taste is mildly acidic and doesn't have that "carbonated" taste -- but it does have an interesting fruit character. Maybe someone with a better palate than mine could pull it apart. The closest I think I can come (and I'm really not trying to be a wine snob here) is starfruit. The finish is quick and acidic, and mellows into a creamier taste -- almost chardonnayish, if chardonnay were citrusy. If you like pinot grigio, this is a wine you can wrap your tastebuds around for about $10 for a full liter.

Berger also produces one of the few indigenous Austrian reds, called Zweigelt. Aside from being last alphabetically on any wine rack, it's just a straight drinking red. It does have some of the same mineral character (and a similar price point), but I didn't try it with food. It's a curiosity -- but it is in a liter bottle, which is a plus for a cold night.

Until next time…watch your old copy of "Sound of Music" and enjoy some Austrian white. So long, fair well, auf Wiedersehen, goodbye…

Masters of Our Domain

The Vine now has its own address. As you can see above (if the forwarding is working now)...we're now at: http://www.thenakedvine.net

I feel all official now.

Think Pink -- Pause and Reflect

On February 24, the Noble Circle Project of Dayton will hold their annual "Wear Affair" fashion show luncheon fundraiser. The Noble Circle is a group of breast cancer survivors helping other women with cancer reclaim their health through holistic methods. They have created an incredibly supportive, vibrant community -- a true source of strength and hope.

My Sweet Partner in Crime's sister was diagnosed with breast cancer over three years ago. We have seen her frustration and fears, but we've also seen her hope, laughter, and incredible demonstrations of spiritual and emotional strength. The Noble Circle has been invaluable for she and her other Noble Circle sisters as the treatments continue.

I know very few people who haven't been touched by this disease. According to the Susan Komen foundation, an estimated 178,480 new cases of breast cancer will be diagnosed among American women in 2007.

In honor of the upcoming event and as a toast to these brave women, I want to celebrate them with pink wines for this installment. I encourage everyone, male and female alike, to learn about this disease and find a way to help. If you're in the Dayton area, explore Noble Circle and consider a contribution, the purchase of some raffle tickets or perhaps a seat at the upcoming fundraiser. Most of all, give your love, prayers, energy, and hope to those around you.

Concha y Toro Frontera 2005 Rosé -- If you're looking for a "starter rosé," this is a wine worth exploring. Frontera is the second label (if there is such a thing) of the already inexpensive Concha y Toro winery in Chile. As I've touched on before, Chile turned itself into a worldwide wine power with inexpensive, decent offerings. While the Frontera reds are probably better avoided, this rosé is actually halfway decent if you're not looking for anything complex. I say it's a good transition wine if you want to move away from white zinfandel. There's a nice berry nose and still some residual sweetness and cherry flavor to the taste -- coupled with a touch of the acidity for which rosés are often known. The finish is short and crisp. I could see this as a summer wine or if you wanted something light to pair with salmon or a salad. $5-6.

Canto Perdrix 2004 Tavel -- Tavel is one of the world's most famous French rosés from the town of the same name in the southern Rhone. The bottles embossed with the town's distinctive "T" shield. Tavel is produced mainly from Grenache. If you're seeking this one out, look for the bottle with the partridge on the label. (Canto Perdrix is "Song of the Partridge.") This is a very dark colored rosé. It could almost pass for a light red (the Sweet Partner in Crime thought I'd put a pinot in the fridge). The Perdrix has a light, easy nose of cranberry and apple. It doesn't have the acidic bite of many rosés -- more of a balance between fruit and tartness. Perdrix is very easy drinking, full of raspberries. Like most Tavels, the finish is fruity, dry, and lingers quite a long time. I'd have this with either a seafood stew or maybe some steamed mussels or clams. A real palate pleaser $13-15.

Bonny Doon 2005 Vin Gris de Cigare -- This is an American version of a "Rhone style" rosé. "Vin Gris" is French for "gray wine" -- one of their names for rosé. As for the "Cigare?" Well, Bonny Doon has long been a winery with a sense of humor. One of the Bonny Doon red wines is called "Le Cigare Volant." In French, the term for unidentified flying object translates literally as "The Flying Cigar." The French town of Chateauneuf-du-Pape passed a city ordinance forbidding UFO's from landing within the town limits. The winemaker, Randall Grahm, has long welcomed UFO's on his property, thus the name of his wine. The basis of his rosé is that wine, blended with white Grenache. This one has a slightly yeasty nose of apples and flowers. Again, an excellent fruit and acid balance, coupled with flavors of berries and honey. Finish is semi-dry, fruity, and lasting. You could have this with a salad niçoise now or pick this up on a summer night and wait for the aliens to come. $11-13.

I also mentioned a couple of other wonderful rosés in an earlier installment: Curtis and Sunstone. I have one additional wine:

Two Brothers 2004 Big Tattoo Red -- Most certainly not pink, but one bearing a mention. The Bartholomaus Brothers started this line of wines as a tribute to their late mother, who lost her battle with breast cancer in 2000. Fifty cents from each bottle sold is donated to various hospices and breast cancer research charities in the state of the sale. Big Tattoo is also a very decent wine. This Chilean blend is half cabernet sauvignon and half syrah. The nose is mellow berries and plums. It's a medium bodied, somewhat earthy red with more berries. The tannins lend a bitter dark chocolate flavor to the finish, which is pleasantly strong, round and lasting. While this is a very nice wine to drink on its own in the evening, like many Chilean reds, this goes well with meats, spicy sausages, or red pasta sauces. Two Brothers has expanded their project, creating Big Tattoo White (a blend of German Riesling and Pinot Blanc) and a straight syrah. I haven't tried the latter two, but with price points from $8-11, they're easy pickups.

So lift a glass, take a moment for silent reflection, and appreciate how truly lucky we are to share in this life.

Valentine's Day Wine -- wine and chocolate pairings

I had mixed feelings about this installment. In the interest of full disclosure, Valentine's Day may be my least favorite holiday. I won't go off on my long-winded rant about "coming through on February 14^th," societal expectation, Hallmark holidays and the like – so I'll try to focus on the positive. Valentine's Day is supposed to be a day to do something good for your beloved. Gifts, romantic gestures, etc. are commonplace. (Cynical Mike says, "Why shouldn't that be every day?" Down boy.) Two traditions stand out for me -- wine and chocolate.

The most recent wine tasting I attended, led by Brian of Vintner Select, focused on wines pairing well with chocolate. He made the observation that people either really love the taste of chocolate with wine or it simply doesn't work for them -- not much in-between. I happen to be in the former category, as does the Sweet Partner in Crime. He put together an interesting array. Unfortunately, many were outside Vine range.

However, I shamelessly cribbed the idea and sampled a few wines for readers looking to craft a gift basket for someone special. (And for single Vine readers -- that "someone special" can be yourself. You also get the whole bottle to yourself that way…make the best of it!) So here’s something for every palate:

Domaine Ste. Michele Brut Columbia Valley -- Leading off, the traditional "romantic beverage," sparkling wine. (Remember, it's not champagne.) I find dry sparkling wines work better than sweet with chocolates. Although French-sounding, Domaine Ste. Michele is in Washington and is part of Ste. Michele Wineries. They produce Chateau Ste. Michele, Columbia Crest, and Snoqualmie labels among others. This brut is a simple, refreshing palate cleanser. There's a little fruit behind the bubbles, amplified pleasantly by the chocolate. This wine's also very flexible -- it will go with almost any food. It's equally worthwhile on its own, with desserts, in mimosas for the morning after, or -- as we had had it -- with Kentucky Fried Chicken. Tasty. For $8-10, you won't break the bank.

Rosenblum Vintner's Cuvée XXIX Zinfandel -- If you ever see a wine labeled "cuvée" -- that’s WineSpeak for "a blend of different batches or vintages." Winemakers commonly blend bits of wine from different vineyards. In many cases, the whole outstrips the parts. The Rosenblum Vintner Cuvée series is a very accessible set of wines -- and they're especially good for this price. Their cuvée zinfandel hits you with an enormously fruity nose with strong plum and cherry scents. There's a medium body and lots of fruit. The finish is less spicy and peppery than some zins and not overly dry. If you've ever heard a zinfandel referred to as a "fruit bomb" -- here's a prime example. If your intended doesn't like dry reds, here’s an excellent alternative. However, the finish of this wine doesn't hold up well against dark chocolate. The first sip is nice, but the rest of the flavor combination doesn't work very well. With milk chocolate -- normally not so bitter -- the flavors marry really well. Chocolate-covered cherries would be a great combination here, also. At $8-9, a good choice for the Esther Price recipient on your list.

Rabbit Ridge 2004 Central Coast Cabernet Sauvignon -- Cabernet sauvignon and chocolate is a classic pairing. The Rabbit Ridge has a pronounced nose of cherry and pine trees. The taste is full bodied and full of fruit. It's moderately dry with a long, slightly smoky, dry finish. Dark chocolate and this wine go hand in hand. The bitterness of the chocolate pulls out the wine's fruit, and the wine's finishing tannins take the edge off the deep chocolate taste, leaving a delicious finish. You'll find this for $8-10. (Personal note on Rabbit Ridge -- one of their former winemakers, Susie Selby, started her own winery in Healdsburg, California, and she cranks out some of the best zins and merlots you'll find. They're out of our price range here, but if you splurge on a Selby wine, you won't be disappointed.)

Jacob's Creek 2004 Reserve Shiraz -- Since the Santa Barbara trip, I've become quite enamored with syrah. Down Under, for whatever reason, the Ozzies call the grape "shiraz." Who knows? Who cares? It's scrumptious, just the same. Shiraz is one of the more widely planted grapes in Australia, and goes fabulously well with chocolate. Jacob's Creek is a widely-distributed Australian wine, and their reserve starts you with a subtle combination of pepper and licorice. The first sip is full of soft, velvety fruit, joined quickly by some spice. The finish is nicely balanced with flavors of cloves and fruit. You might want to crack this one and let it breathe for 15 minutes or so before you serve it to let the fruit open up. I was fascinated by the combination of this wine and dark chocolate. The two tastes took turns coming forward, each complimenting the other wonderfully. The finish was very long and tasty. A bottle runs you $11-13 well-spent.

Until next time, be happy with yourself or others and bundle up against the February cold…